October 29, 2007
Ask the average jewelry buyer who Friedrich Mohs is, and they will quickly rack their brain trying to remember the name of their salesperson. Not to worry, you have not made a social faux pas. Friedrich Mohs was a German mineralogist who devised a method of comparing the scratch resistance of minerals back in the 1800’s. Why is that important you, the average buyer? Well, gemstones are minerals and therefore ranked on this scale according to durability. Keeping in mind that when you are buying a gift for someone (or even a little something for yourself), you want to buy something that not only looks nice, but something that will last a long time. A basic understanding of the hardness of minerals will save you headaches in the long run.
First of all, Friedrich Mohs devised this scale based upon a very basic test. He took ten easily found minerals and arranged them in 
order of what will and what won’t scratch each other. It is as simple as that. If a mineral can be scratched, it is softer; if it cannot, it’s harder. And so the rank of 1-10 was developed; ten listed as the hardest mineral, the diamond, and one listed the softest, talc. Does that mean that a diamond is ten times more durable than talc? Surprisingly, no. The scale is less of a scale and more of a table. Meaning, the durability difference between a ranking of a 8 compared to a 9 is different than a ranking of a 9 compared to a 10. Simply put, the diamond (a 10) is not harder than a ruby (a 9) by a difference of one; a diamond is many times harder than a ruby, there is simply no mineral that ranks in between them.
Where do your favorite gems rank? If you have ever wondered what the big deal was surrounding the importance of diamonds, it will be no surprise to you to find out that diamonds rank at the top of the hardness scale. A great number of factors figure in to why diamonds are the ultimate symbol of love and beauty, one of which is the symbolism of the hardest naturally occurring substance in the world interlaced with the idea of one’s devotion possessing the same unyielding properties.
A number nine on Mohs scale is corundum, more commonly known as sapphire and ruby. Many are surprised to find out that these two different gems have the same mineral properties. Sapphires are not just blue; in fact, corundum is found in a wide variety of colors, most of which are referred to as sapphire, while only red corundum is called ruby.
Another gem available in a wide variety of colors is topaz, number 8 on Mohs scale. Commonly available in yellow-brown and blue, topaz can also be green, pink, orange, and even colorless. In fact, there is no such thing as naturally occurring blue topaz. What you see as blue topaz in the stores is actually topaz which has been heat treated to turn them blue.
Another common precious gem, the emerald, has a unique place on Mohs scale at a 7.5 to 8 hardness level. As you look around a jewelry store, you may begin to wonder why an emerald is more expensive than a topaz, a gem that is more durable. The answer is simple; the highest naturally occurring emerald will be more expensive than a diamond because of its rarity, which is why more affordable synthetic emeralds are being developed. Emeralds are considered high on the hardness scale because of their resistance to scratching; however, natural emeralds are in fact brittle stones and should be treated more gingerly.
There are innumerable amounts of quartz varieties which fall at a level 7 on the scale. Common gems included in this group are amethyst and citrine. Opal is also a variety of quartz, but it is a hydrated, solidified quartz gel, which is why it is not faceted for jewelry purposes, but appears domed in shape.
When buying a gem, consider the Mohs scale as a great reference tool. Does it mean that you should shy away from a gem based upon it’s placement on the scale? Certainly not. But understanding the scale will help you make an educated decision about what to buy based upon how you wear and how you care for your jewelry.
October 22, 2007
A number of years ago, I had an epiphany while tearing my hair out over what to buy my young niece for Christmas. I bought her a jewelry box, and each subsequent year I gave her another piece of jewelry to help her build a collection that would serve her well for the rest of her life.
Of course, the pieces I gave were inexpensive. But the idea did cause me to wonder what would comprise the five essentials for a woman’s jewelry collection — a starter-set, if you will. I figured this would provide me with a great template when considering what to buy my wife on special occasions.
My five essentials–
1. A strand of pearls. In my opinion, nothing says ‘dress up’ better than pearls. They work well with almost any color and style of dress, they are durable, if treated properly, and an 18″ 7mm strand of good-quality pearls won’t set you back much more than the cost of a weekend getaway. I’d recommend an 18″ strand, by the way, because this length works with a variety of necklines. You’ll find strands of pearls in a variety of subtle tones from pink, favored in the west, to gold, favored in the east. Either are beautiful, so choose what flatters your skin tone.
2. Diamond solitaire. While this is by far the most popular choice for engagement rings, one shouldn’t have to wait until then to enjoy the sparkle of a diamond. Even a smaller stone in a solitaire mounting catches enough light to set off the gem’s fire, and this ring’s simplicity makes it a great choice with any outfit. It can be a surprisingly durable choice, as well, as long as you keep an eye on the prongs. Remember; if it snags, run, don’t walk, to your jeweler.
3. Diamond stud earrings. Properly mounted diamond studs allow you to maintain a touch of elegance when other jewelry isn’t appropriate. For example, note the athletes such as LeBron James that sport diamonds while at play. While their bling is usually over-the-top, diamond studs don’t need to be large, or top-quality, to have an impact. In fact, in my opinion, smaller stones tend to enhance the delicacy of one’s ears.
4. Gold chain. I know that everyone in America owns a gold chain; many own many. Unfortunately, most of them are so cheaply made that their life expectancy is slight. For a life collection, I’d suggest a substantial chain, one that weighs enough that it seems surprisingly heavy when you hold it in your hand. These chains don’t skimp on the inside of the links where metal wears on metal. Rather than flat chains, which inevitably kink and lose some of their luster, consider the more open-link styles such as the curb, or Cuban. With proper care, they’ll last a lifetime.
5. Gold bracelet. Again, a standard for casual dress-up, parties, and office wear. An attractive gold bracelet draws attention to 
your hands, so it makes a great partner for that super manicure you just splurged on. Durability is essential with a bracelet, since it will snag and catch. Favor an open-link style, the heavier the better. And don’t skimp on the clasp; a lobster clasp, for one, is much more substantial than the usual spring ring.
With these five basics, a woman can dress up or down, ready for everything from a volleyball game to a coronation. Having a blueprint for gift-giving will make shopping for those special occasions a little easier, too.
October 9, 2007
While diamond wedding rings tend to take stage in the United States and across the world, there are a few notable exceptions both in style and symbolism.
The first appearance of wedding rings has an arguable start. Some claim the Egyptians began giving wedding rings; another claim states that wedding rings were not common until the 11th century. Whatever the time frame, wedding rings have become a symbol of commitment to marriage throughout many cultures.
Although a plain gold band continues to be the most popular type of wedding ring throughout the world, there are a few variations. 
In France and many French speaking countries, it is common for the wedding ring to consist of three interwoven rings symbolizing love, hope, and faith. These rings are commonly made of three different colors of gold; yellow, white, and rose gold. In Greece and Italy, it is common for men to receive a type of puzzle ring made of gold to wear as a wedding band. The idea here is that they must prove their commitment by solving the puzzle and prove their faithfulness by wearing the ring constantly so as not to dislodge the puzzle.
The world over, women’s wedding rings most commonly contain diamonds as a sign of indestructible love, however other gem stones have also had a stay. In medieval Europe, the ruby was commonly used because they were red, like a heart. Sapphires were also used to symbolize the heavens, from which love came. Posey rings became popular in France in the 17th century.
These rings were inscribed with poems and love verses either inside or outside to declare adoration. Engraved wedding bands remain a very popular choice today. Wedding rings containing aquamarine represent marital harmony, where as pearl engagement rings were considered bad luck because the shape of the pearl was similar to that of a tear. In Victorian England, snake rings complete with ruby eyes were popular wedding bands because the coil winding around the finger symbolized eternity.
In renaissance Italy, silver betrothal rings became popular. These were highly ornate rings that were usually engraved and filled with black enamel so the pattern would contrast with the metal. Later, when gold became the popular metal of choice, the Italian silver betrothal ring was given first to be followed by a duplicate ring made of gold given at the wedding itself. This is most likely how the idea of separate engagement and wedding rings came into play, a tradition that continues today.
Tradition states that wedding rings are to be worn on the fourth finger of the left hand (including the thumb) because it was thought that that particular finger contained a vein which leads directly to the heart. This is not traditional throughout the world however, as is the case in Norway and Russia where the wedding ring is to be worn on the same finger of the right hand. 
Wearing two rings, the engagement ring and the wedding ring, on the ring finger has become the norm in North America. The engagement ring in this case usually holds the diamond which is given as a symbol of love and a promise from the man to the woman to take care of her. In Sweden, the bride wears three rings after her wedding; an engagement ring, a wedding ring, and a ring for motherhood, a promise to bring forth a family.
Most Christian weddings include an exchange of rings with the exception of the Quakers who may or may not exchange rings during or after the ceremonial Meeting. Quakers do not consider the traditions of wedding rings to be as much of a necessity as do other denominations. Early on, the Protestant Puritans claimed that wedding rings were a pagan ritual and were not to be used. Further, they were enraged with the Catholic claim that Mary and Joseph wore wedding rings made from onyx or amethyst.
Most religions throughout the world now consider the exchange of wedding rings to be a powerful and romantic symbol in a marriage ceremony. As a matter of fact, Irish folklore indicates that it is bad luck to be wed without a gold ring, even to the extent of considering the marriage illegal without one. Whatever the stone or metal choice, the exchange of wedding rings symbolizes the same ideal the world over; unending love and commitment.
October 2, 2007
Half Of A Diamond’s Worth Is Based On Its Cut
Although all of the ‘4 C’s – carats, clarity, color and cut – are important when choosing a quality diamond, cut is considered the most crucial characteristic.
Without a good cut, a diamond will not be as brilliant and sparkle as much as it could. This is why half the worth of a diamond is based on its cut.
The less symmetrically proportioned a diamond is, the less fire and brilliance it will have no matter what shape it is cut into. The jeweler chooses the shape such as round, marquise, heart, pear, emerald, princess, radiant or oval based on how well the light will be refracted in the cut diamond. Placement of the facets is very important to allow for the brightest shine. Most diamonds are cut to have 58 facets.
These Seven Main Considerations Of A Diamond’s Cut Determine Its Brilliance:
- Table Percent – the measurement of the flat topped, biggest facet of the diamond
- Crown Angle – the angled upper part of a diamond that connects the table and the girdle
- Girdle – the part of the diamond that attaches to the setting and forms the diamond’s perimeter, connects the crown and the pavillion
- Pavillion Percent – the angled lower part of a diamond that connects the girdle and the cutlet
- Cutlet Size – the faceted tip of the diamond, has to be the correct size to avoid chipping
- Symmetry – refers to how well the facets are created and connected geometrically, if the facets are not well-aligned, the light can not refract well and the, diamond will not be as brilliant as it could be
- Polish – refers to how smooth the diamond’s facets are on the surface, if the facets are not smooth, the stone may look dark or blurry rather than clear and sparkly
The diamond must not be too shallowly cut or the light will not be refracted to its optimum level as some of the light will be directed to the base of the stone. If the diamond is cut too deeply, the light will also be redirected, but through the sides of the gem. A diamond that is cut too shallowly or deeply might even look dull. The cut that allows for the maximum light refraction and brilliance in a diamond is called a “fine cut” or “ideal cut.”
The cut measurements of a diamond must be mathematically precise for maximum brilliance as the geometric proportions form a prism. The cuts are angled to refract the maximum amount of light to allow for the full color spectrum of the prism to be present. The color spectrum refraction adds to the “fire” of a diamond.
A Diamond’s Cut Also Relates To Its Durability
The cutlet, or bottom tip of the diamond, has to be cut to the right size in order to deter chipping. The girdle is the part of the diamond that is attached to the setting and if the girdle is cut too thin, the diamond may chip or may not set properly. Diamonds should also be cut so that any feathery cracks are below the surface of the diamond. If these cracks are on the top of the diamond, the diamond will not be as durable as it could break more easily.
